Freemasonry in the Yukon Territory by W. Bro. Dennis M. Eve |
The Yukon Territory — an introduction. The Yukon Territory, an area of 186,661 square miles in the extreme northwest of Canada, lies directly north of the province of British Columbia, with the Northwest Territories to the east and the USA state of Alaska to the west. In the north it stretches well above the Arctic Circle to border the Beaufort Sea. Its capital is the City of Whitehorse. The mighty Yukon River from its source at the Llewellyn Glacier, high above Atlin Lake in northwestern British Columbia, runs for a distance of approximately 2,300 miles, northwards through the Yukon Territory, via the cities of Whitehorse and Dawson City, continuing westwards across Alaska to the Yukon delta where it empties into the Bering Sea, South of Norton Sound. It is not my intention to present a geography lesson, but it is of course necessary to make sure you are aware in what direction we will be travelling together! The Yukon River is the main artery that has, since time immemorial been the waterway that was once the arteries of life in the communities of the Yukon Territory. As the source of the river is in the south and the river flows northward from Whitehorse to Dawson City. Downstream would therefore be north and people still say “down north” or “I’m going down to Dawson” for the week-end. So a visitor of course would ask. “Down to Dawson? Isn’t it up north?” Just how Freemasonry was introduced into the territory is not easy to say but in 1844 ships from England and San Francisco were arriving at Fort Victoria in British Columbia. It was in 1849 that Vancouver’s Island, of which Victoria is now the capital, was proclaimed a British colony by Great Britain. In 1866 the mainland and island colonies were merged into a single entity “The Colony of British Columbia” and on July 1st 1871, the first Dominion Day was celebrated in British Columbia and she assumed her place as a province of the Dominion of Canada, even though the Terms of the Union Act was not official until July 20th, 1871. With the population growth and existence of Freemasonry now becoming established in British Columbia, “The Grand Lodge of Ancient Free and Accepted Masons of The Province of British Columbia” was consecrated on 26 December 1871. The origins of Freemasonry in the Yukon Territory and the umbilical cord that tied them together: gold. In 1896 prospector George Carmack and his Native brother-in-law “Skookum Jim” Mason, and another Native relative named “Tagish Charlie”, were panning for gold far up north on the banks of the Klondike river. George Carmack lifted some sand from Rabbit Creek, (which we now know as Bonanza Creek, a small stream running into the Klondike River) and discovered the precious metal which propelled North America into a gold fever frenzy. Unwittingly, George Carmack had created the greatest gold rush in history. Fortune hunters in their thousands disgorged from ship after ship at Skagway (Skaguay) in Alaska. A shanty town of saloons and gambling dens grew up as prospectors prepared themselves for their journey into the Klondyke region over the infamous White Pass. It was as if the world was trying to funnel its way along this tiny thread of hell on earth. Those with horses blindfolded them; even so, thousands of dead horses lay sprawled at the foot of Dead Horse Gulch. The Chilkoot Pass was approximately 3,000 feet in height at its summit, with temperatures reaching -60c degrees in the winter, snaked along a trail of ice and rock no more than four feet wide that was permanently packed with a line of prospectors, an ant-like army crawling up the icy pass, each man with a huge pack on his back, clinging to its slippery face. Their sleds, carrying a year’s supply of food and weighing up to 2,000 lbs, traversed the canyons that lay ahead, with the aid of the “Jacob’s Ladders” that were carried with them. Men dropped, and the gaps closed up, the march went on, “Klondike or bust” was the slogan that bound together these men of the High North, the Arctic Brotherhood. The Arctic Brotherhood was a fraternal society, formed aboard the Steam Ship, City of Seattle, as she steamed up the Lynn Canal towards Skagway, Alaska, in early 1899 with stampeders bound for the Klondike. The fellowship that had brought everyone together consisted of miners and prospectors from both sides of the international border: “No Boundary Line Here” became their motto. While on the ship, they pledged to leave cabin doors open, to care for the sick and destitute comrades, and to prevent cruelty to animals. A truly unique Northern Order had been born. Their No. 1 Camp was built at Skagway, Alaska, to give them the opportunity to acclimatize to their new environment, and prepare for that terrifying trek over the Chilkoot Pass. Of those who had managed to traverse the Chilkoot Pass before the freeze-up in the winter of 1898-99, arrival in Atlin, BC, gave them the determination to build on their fraternal beliefs, bringing with them their initiation rituals which were elaborate, if somewhat tongue-in-cheek. The badge was a beer bottle cork and the dues a bottle of beer. Such was the immediate explosion of support given to this fraternal society that they built their own hall in Atlin, BC, which was approximately 160 miles east of Skagway, Alaska. The fraternity flourished, due to the need to support each other and a desperate need by those whose health had buckled on the rails with their arduous journey north. The winter of 1898-99 had been particularly cold and a good number of those who arrived in the early months of 1899 were in a weakened condition. The Provincial Government Hospital facilities were so inadequate that a private infirmary was built, it opened on 1 May 1899 and included private rooms. There was even a room reserved for members of the masonic lodge. Sadly, in less than a year the founding members had left the area, and the Atlin Arctic Brotherhood Building was abandoned. However the fraternity continued to flourish in the north. Atlinto Lodge No. 42, British Columbia In 1905 another camp was established in Discovery BC, 7 miles east of Atlin and a hall was built next to the Nugget Hotel. The membership rose to 182 and included Discovery and Atlin’s most prominent citizens. Dating from the summer of 1899, there are regular reports of meetings of the masonic brotherhood in Atlin and Discovery. It was in July 1899, that 75 “sojourning brothers” gathered in Atlin with one aim in view, to form their own masonic lodge. . The Grand Lodge of Manitoba, under whose jurisdiction the lodge would be responsible, was not convinced of the permanence of Atlin though, and Atlinto Lodge No. 42 was not founded until December, 1904 and its charter issued in June, 1906. The history of Atlinto Lodge and the town of Atlin are closely linked. The town came into being as the result of gold being found in the adjacent creeks during the latter part of the 1890s. Many of the social events in the town were organized by the masonic lodge and were not restricted to members only but were designed to include everyone who wanted to attend. The annual picnic to Ben-My-Chree on Tagish Lake on the steamer Scotia marked the end of the summer season. Attendance at lodge meetings was looked upon as mandatory for members living in the district and it was a regular occurrence for many to walk from the creeks where they worked and lived, to Atlin on a lodge night. Distances varied but for some the round trip would be 15 miles. When RW Bro. J.A. Fraser of Atlinto Lodge was honoured by the appointment to the office of District Deputy Grand Master, he was required to pay official visits to Whitehorse and Dawson City, whose lodges constituted District No. 11. He did in fact, present the new charter of the Grand Lodge of British Columbia to Whitehorse Lodge in 1907. This visit would be done in the summer months by boat and train consuming at least a month of his time. The Grand Master however, on his occasional trips would need six weeks to complete his tour via Vancouver, by boat. On 7 April, 1908, the secretary of Atlinto Lodge No. 42 wrote the following message to the secretary of Whitehorse Lodge No. 46:- “According to section 165 of the constitution, the jurisdiction of each lodge extends half way in every direction to the nearest Lodge, consequently our jurisdiction is half way between Whitehorse Lodge and Atlinto Lodge (113 miles), and we should endeavour by the simplest means to determine amicably where the said line is situated, so we may avoid any differences that might arise with reference to applicants residing at or near the boundary lines. As the Dixon Bro’s. of your town are familiar with the territory I would suggest that they determine where the line should be. In my opinion it will probably be found about half way between Conrad and Carcross. Hoping that you will co-operate with us in this matter, I beg to remain, fraternally yours, A.F. Couley, Secretary.” Atlin suffered several fires that consumed the town and in one of them the lodge premises were destroyed along with most of the records. This was in 1929 and while new premises were obtained, the lodge appears to have suffered a blow from which it never really recovered—and neither did the town. By the late 1960s resident numbers were not sufficient to keep masonry alive and only the frequent support and attendance of Whitehorse based freemasons saved the day. About 1970, the decision to move the lodge to Whitehorse was taken and there it remains to this day. At the present day Atlinto Lodge has 50 members including affiliates, they average 15 in attendance at their meetings. Their ritual is Ancient, or “American Work”. Although gold was discovered in the Klondike in August of 1896, it was not until July of 1897 that this news reached Seattle and San Francisco. Most argonauts remained frozen in for the winter, on trails over inhospitable mountain passes, and it was only after the ice on the lakes “went out” that the gold-seekers were able to continue their journey. They hiked treacherous mountain passes, rafted wild rapids and sailed storm-blown lakes, in all directions. Vancouver and Seattle doubled in size almost overnight, the capital cities of Victoria and Edmonton tripled. In one day alone — 29 May 1898 — 7,000 home-made boats and rafts of all descriptions set forth from Bennett Lake, where they had spent the remainder of the winter, to complete the last part of their journey via the Yukon River and it’s tributaries to Dawson City, a distance of some 600 miles. To give you an example of the type of challenges that awaited them, I will relate to you a journey assumed to have been made by Robert William Service, a great poet and author who did so much to bring the “insiders”, the Yukoners, to the outside world, with works such as “The Shooting of Dan McGrew” and “The Cremation of Sam McGee”, just two of approximately 1000 poems that were written, with such drama and intensity, of his time spent in the Yukon. Service was working for the Bank of Commerce in Whitehorse in 1905, and by, 1909 he had moved to Dawson City, his poetry was proving so popular that he became financially independent and made a short visit to the USA. However, he yearned again for the Yukon and decided by 1911 to return the hard way, by “The Edmonton Trail”, a journey by canoe down the Mackenzie River, over the Mackenzie Divide via the Rat River, and down the Bell and the Porcupine rivers to the Yukon River. The following description was sent to me recently by my friend in Whitehorse: “Firstly, no one in their right mind would do that today, foolhardy would be the mildest term that I could think of. The entire area beyond Edmonton, Alberta, is still mostly wilderness today with only a few settlements; there is no road or trail remotely close. Let’s presume he is leaving Vancouver. That would be either by train if there was one, to somewhere in North Dakota, USA, thence by stage coach or horseback to Edmonton. This wouldn’t be difficult as we are now in the great plains area of the USA and Canada. Only a few rivers to cross: the Saskatchewan River at Edmonton is very swift and usually dark gray from the mud and silt flowing down it. There may have been a cable ferry in those days but they probably swam it with horses. “Today it is 335 miles from Edmonton to Peace River, Alberta, but in those days it would have been a trail in places, no trail in places, a quagmire, mosquitoes, unfriendly natives, many small rivers to cross, and any one of them could take your life. Once on the Peace River, a canoe trip down the Peace into the Mackenzie River and down it, to somewhere around today what would be shown on the map as Fort Simpson or a bit further north. Then it would be overland by foot to what today is known as Fort McPherson near the North West Territories border. “Service could have travelled the full length of the MacKenzie River, however he would have to leave it somewhere and go on to Fort MacPherson as records show that he arrived there. He could have left at Arctic Red River but in some of the records they think he left at Fort Simpson. Another interesting item not very well known, is that the Inuit natives in that area in the late 1800s were cannibals, they fought constantly with the natives in the Fort Simpson area. This could be a very good reason why the trail historically, takes to the west, overland, after Fort Simpson. “The terrain would be a mixture of thick timbered country coming west from the Mackenzie river, to a sub-alpine area with shrubs three to four feet high. This country is extremely difficult to walk on, figure one of your cobblestones roads as an example, change the cobblestones to round rocks 15 inches in diameter and cover them with 3 inches of slippery moss and fill in all the low spots with water. That is tundra, you would not walk on that today for much farther than a mile before you changed your mind. That walk to Fort McPherson must have been 300 – 400 miles, maybe more. Now in the same terrain find the Rat river (named after the small muskrat animal that abounds — approximately ninety to make a fur coat) — build another canoe, go downstream and find the Bell river. I have no idea how they could have done that as people get lost even today trying to find the Bell river, and there were only primitive maps available in those days. “Once in the Bell, it is downstream to the Porcupine river past the town of Old Crow, which didn’t exist then, but is shown on today’s maps. The Porcupine is a half mile across at the town of Old Crow and gets bigger as it flows towards the Yukon River. On reaching the Yukon River he would have had to paddle upstream for over 100 miles to get to Dawson. The Yukon River flows at an average nine miles per hour, and provided they got to the Yukon before October 1, they may have been able to catch the last sternwheeler of the season to Dawson City. If not, they would have had to wait a month for freeze-up and walk the river to Dawson City. “All this time, they would live out of a 60 – 80 lbs packsack containing food and bare essentials such as axe, bedroll, utensils, rifle, spare clothing, etc. The rest of the food would have to come from the land: deer, moose, bear, caribou, grouse, ground squirrels, berries, etc. A person would have to be eccentric or goofy to do that journey today but of course many people did it, so there would be a few people on the trail coming and going to give details of what lay ahead. The journey from Edmonton to Dawson City could have taken up to three gruelling years. Hundreds who left from Edmonton were drowned by the mighty Mackenzie River or frozen solid by the arctic winter. “Once back home in Dawson City, Robert William Service became attracted to Freemasonry and in 1912 he was initiated into Yukon Lodge No. 45, and was passed to the degree of a Fellowcraft sometime during the period up to 1920. It appears that his name was taken off the lodge roll soon after. He travelled extensively through Europe the USA and returned to Monte Carlo where he died on 11 September, 1958. Having been sixty years a bard and having penned thirty thousand couplets, he had introduced the world to the Yukon, a country that had tested to the full, the endurance and indomitable spirit of the Klondikers.” Dawson City, Yukon Territory. When most of these people did eventually arrive at Dawson City in July 1898, after arduous months of travel and a torturous winter, they found that all the best claims had long since been staked by experienced prospectors who had been in the Yukon for years seeking their own Eldorado. Consequently the law of survival determined that the people should start to build their own lives and so it was, that in the years of 1897 and 1898 Dawson City, with a population of around 30,000 people, became the biggest city west of Chicago and north of San Francisco. The following “Yukon Nuggets” were sent to me by a good friend who is the lodge historian of Whitehorse Lodge No. 46 and a member of Yukon Lodge No. 45. He retired from Parks Canada a few years ago. The life story of Dawson City is much like that of a beautiful butterfly in that it matures fully in one year and then dies. You could get anything you wanted, from the finest of French Champagne at $20 to $40 a pint, and Paris fashions, to the best foods. Prices were sky high, a shave was $1, haircut $1.50, bath $2.50, fencing nails sold for as high as $8 a pound. Hurdy- Gurdy dancers were available and one was bought by a miner for her weight in gold! There was never a city in the history of the world like Dawson City. It was truly unique. Diamond Tooth Gertie (Gertie Lovejoy) was a bona fide Yukon dance hall queen. Her nickname came from the sparkling diamond she had wedged between her two front teeth. She made a fortune relieving the miners of their golden nuggets. Unlike most mining towns, Dawson City counted women and children among its first residents. Martha Louise Black, abandoned by her husband en route to the Klondike in 1898, hiked the Chilkoot Pass, and sailed pregnant down the Yukon River in a home-made boat to Dawson City. She later married George Black and became Yukon’s first, and Canada’s second, woman Member of Parliament. It was as if someone had picked up a town and its people from the Canadian plains and transplanted it to the banks of the Yukon River. By early 1898, all the usual amenities of city life were available including the telegraph, electricity, sidewalks, a police force, banks, a post office, theatres, and more bars than any one man could visit in a single evening. The saloons of Dawson City were magnificent, a man could get a drink of anything he wanted, providing that he had the money. Whiskey flowed faster than the Yukon River, and legendary ladies like “Klondike” Kate Rockwell and Diamond Tooth Gertie were in demand. For many, payment was in gold dust only (at about $16 per ounce), with everyone taking their share. Barkeepers let their fingernails grow long to pick up a little dust. One enterprising youngster swept the sawdust off the floor every morning and panned the gold droppings out of it. That was what Dawson City was like in those days. Yukon Lodge No. 45, Dawson City. In the 28 June 1898 issue of the Klondike Nugget a local newspaper out of Dawson City, there was a report of a masonic meeting held at the Pioneer Club on Saturday night. The meeting was of a social nature and is supposedly the first masonic assemblage in the Yukon Territory. At the request of a number of freemasons in Dawson City, who at that time were themselves from lodges under the jurisdiction of the Grand Lodge of Manitoba, application was made for a dispensation to open a masonic lodge at Dawson City under the name of Klondike Lodge. On 15 December 1898 a dispensation was issued by the Grand Lodge of Manitoba, but on 12 June, 1900 it was replaced with another dispensation that was now issued in the name of Yukon Lodge No. 79. The lodge received its charter in 1901. Their ritual is the Canadian Working which is similar to the English Emulation ritual. Amongst the professions of the brethren of the lodge at this time were:- dentist, plumber, blacksmith, bookkeeper, advocate, undertaker, physician, veterinarian, surgeon, fishery inspector, architect, fireman, electrician, photographer, master mariner, Superintentent of the NWMP, laundryman, student at law and, of course, miners too. They were all freemasons who had come from all walks of life, and had travelled from all parts of the world. After the two lodges at Dawson City and Whitehorse had continued for some years, it was found that most of their communications and business relations were with British Columbia. in 1907 both Yukon lodges petitioned the Grand Lodge of Manitoba to surrender their charters and seek new ones from the Grand Lodge of British Columbia. Both of these petitions proved successful and on 26 June, 1907 the Grand Lodge of British Columbia issued warrants for Yukon Lodge No. 45 (79) in Dawson City, and Whitehorse Lodge No. 46 (81) in the City of Whitehorse. A new masonic district, No. 10, was created for the Yukon Territories which also included Atlinto Lodge No. 42 at Atlin, BC The building now being used by Yukon Lodge No. 45 for their meetings is the original Carnegie Library building. The previous meeting place which the freemasons had used since 1898, was burnt down in about 1932. The need for a library was paramount in those stampede days, as news was at a premium and reading material and newspapers at times had more value than gold. It was fortunate that Mr. A. Nicol the president of the Dawson free library at that time, had an uncle who was a friend of Andrew Carnegie, the well known philanthropist, who lived on his estate at Skibo, in the Highlands of Scotland. He wrote to Mr. Carnegie on 18 April, 1902 to appeal for financial assistance to build a library. Mr. Carnegie’s reply was as follows:-
The city council voted on 1 January, 1903, to accept Mr. Carnegie’s gift. Work commenced quickly. A trench for the foundations was burned and chopped down into the permanently frozen muskeg, or permafrost. The ground is permanently frozen from the surface down as the moss on the top acts as insulation and keeps it from thawing. Although Dawson City has recorded summer temperatures of 105 degrees F., the permafrost doesn’t thaw.
The first form of a masonic organisation in Whitehorse was a picnic held during the summer of 1901, at which VW Bro. Judge Chadwick of Skagway Lodge No. 113, Grand Lodge of Washington, was an honoured guest. To the surprise of the organizers, it was found that there were approximately forty freemasons in the Whitehorse area.
The estimate for furniture etc. mentioned was for $550.
The friendly and fraternal relations, long established, between the brethren of the masonic jurisdictions of the State of Washington (1858) and British Columbia (1871), that had begun before the Grand Lodges were formed, or the State or the Province heard of, were destined to culminate in a meeting of the two Grand Masters of those jurisdictions in an “outpost” lodge of the former. But it was not until 26 August, 1970, when the Grand Masters met in White Pass Lodge No. 113, Grand Lodge of Washington, in Skagway, Alaska. On the following evening, the Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of British Columbia welcomed the Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of Washington at a meeting of Whitehorse Lodge No. 46, BCR, at Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory. This was a noteworthy event in the closing days of the ninety-ninth year of the Grand Lodge of British Columbia and an appropriate recognition of the continuing harmonious relationship that exists between these two contiguous jurisdictions.
A 45 minute paper as presented in October, 1999 to the Temple of Athene Lodge No. 9541 Province of Middlesex at the New Uxbridge Masonic Centre, Hercies Road, Uxbridge, Middlesex by W Bro. Dennis M. Eve, PPrAG Supt Wks, Hayes St. Mary’s Lodge No. 6168, Uxbridge, Middlesex. |